The present invention relates to makeup compositions and methods of making these compositions, and more particularly, to makeup compositions that incorporate one or more hydrophilic film formers.
Makeup compositions are applied as cosmetics to the skin to impart color, hide imperfections, even skin tone and texture, and accentuate or minimize features. Makeups include foundations, face powders, blushes, rouges, and eye shadows. Makeup compositions typically include pigments for coloring and may include other beneficial components, such as sunscreens, moisturizers, vitamins, and antioxidants.
Makeup compositions are available in several forms (e.g., powders, suspensions, dispersions, creams, and gels), but are often formulated as emulsions to provide the desired skin-feel, appearance, coverage, and moisturization attributes. Emulsion makeups typically contain pigments in the outer phase of the emulsion, so the consumer can clearly see the color of the makeup before application. If the pigments are in the inner phase of a makeup emulsion, then the outer phase may cloud, mask, or shift the true color of the makeup before application.
Emulsion cosmetics for skin application are typically water-in-oil emulsions because users prefer the soothing, powdery skin feel of an external oil phase over that of an external water phase. Accordingly, cosmetic pigments used in emulsions are coated or otherwise modified to be oil soluble so the pigment will reside in the external oil phase.
Applied makeups can flake or rub off over time to present a visually diminished appearance. The cosmetic user must then go to the trouble and expense of reapplying the makeup. Thus, cosmetic wearers desire makeups having good "transfer resistance"--that is, the ability to resist rubbing or flaking off to remain on the skin for longer periods.
To enhance transfer resistance, makeup compositions may include one or more "film formers," which are components that upon drying form a film to help bind or hold pigments or other components in place on the skin. Since makeup pigments are typically in the external oil phase of a cosmetic emulsion (as discussed above), the prevailing practice is to use hydrophobic (oil-soluble) film formers in makeups for skin applications. This is because it is widely believed that to enhance transfer resistance the film former should be dispersed in the same phase as the pigments residing in the external oil phase. Further, lipstick and sunscreen compositions use hydrophobic film formers since the environment of use (e.g., saliva and swimming pools) contain water that would dissolve a hydrophilic film former. See, for example, U.S. Pat. No. 5,250, 289 to Boothroyd entitled "Sunscreen Compositions" issued Oct. 5, 1993, which discloses a water-in-oil emulsion containing in the oil phase a oil-soluble film former (PVP/Hexadecene Copolymer--an alkylated polyvinyl pyrrolidone) and an oil-dispersable microfine titanium dioxide particles coated with aluminum stearate as sunscreen. (Examples 3-4.)
U.S. Pat. No. 4,665,107 to Micale entitled "Pigment Encapsulated Latex Aqueous Colorant Dispersions" discloses an oil-in-water emulsion eyeliner having a hydrophobic, oil-soluble film former (alkylated vinylpyrrolidone polymer) with a hydrophobic pigment (coated iron oxide) in the internal oil phase. However, since human skin produces oil over time--and more specifically since the sebaceous glands of the skin produce sebum--the fats and oils residing on the skin tend to resolubilize an oil-soluble film former and thus weaken the binding effect of the resulting film. Also, the use of oil-dispersable pigments may result in an undesirable color shift as the naturally produced skin oils resolubilize the pigments.
European Publication 504,066 published Sep. 16, 1992 entitled "Cosmetic Compositions Containing a Dispersion of Solid Particles Whose Surface is Covered by Means of a Cationic Polymer" discloses an oil-in-water emulsion mascara composition having a hydrophilic film former (hydroxyethylcellulose) in the external water phase with oil-dispersable cationic polymer-coated pigments dispersed in the internal oil phase. (Example J.) However, this mascara formulation suffers from the problem discussed above of a diminished color appearance before application because the pigment is in the internal phase rather than the external phase. Further, since the external phase first contacts the skin during makeup application, the film former in the external phase forms a film on the skin before the pigments are applied from the internal phase--thus resulting in a diminished transfer resistance because the film is under the pigments.